Fine craftsmanship and perfumery. The new direction of fragrance packaging.

Developments in the packaging of niche perfumery, and also of selective perfumery, seek to maintain the high reproducibility of bottles for economies of scale on the one hand, while looking for increasingly significant characterisation and exclusivity on the other.
While the story of a perfume incorporates all its elements, it increasingly starts with the bottle. “The design of a bottle comes much earlier than that of its contents. It shapes the DNA and history of the brand, as well as illustrating the universe created around the new product, without annihilating its predecessors,” says Thierry de Baschmakoff, artistic director, in an interview for Stocksmetic. It is true that it is mainly industry that produces fragrance bottles with their distinctive, recognisable and replicable shapes in massive quantities. In the past, however, this production was primarily carried out by master glassmakers, weavers and goldsmiths. This spirit has re-emerged and dictates a new style of understanding primary packaging for fragrances.
As a result, more and more collaborations between perfume houses and craftsmen are being estbalished, with this partnership primarily (but not only) focusing on the design and development of a particular detail that makes up the perfume bottle: the cap or lid. This customisation then intervenes on the closure and the outer cover, in smaller runs. This increases not only the value of the fragrance, but its perceived value, thereby leading to “collecting”. The Sikelia caps are real works of art, handmade by expert potters from Caltagirone and Santo Stefano di Camastra, depicting the emblematic Sicilian “pine cone”.

Capodimonte porcelain, on the other hand, is the material used in Agatho Parfum’s hand-painted caps. Meanwhile, semi-precious stones, are entrusted to the mastery of the Scarpelli family workshop where mosaics, in keeping with the centuries-old “commesso fiorentino” style, decorate the caps of I Profumi del Marmo, also made from stone including white marble, portoro and travertine.

Stone once again plays a leading role with Haec Dies developed by the nose Filippo Sorcinelli, who tops his bottle with a moulded and ground monolith with a biblical echo.

Hand-cut and polished semi-precious stones also decorate the bottles of the 17/17 Stone Label collection by Xerjoff.

And yet more sculptures crown the fragrances by Ormaie carved from beech and elm root wood, polished by hand and sourced from sustainably managed French forests.

And the response is not long in coming from mainstream brands such as Bulgari with its limited-edition collection, Gemme di Murano. A kaleidoscope of colours created by glass fused and blown through a special process known as “a sbruffi”, which allows for a layering of material that produces effects and nuances of a rare beauty.

Craftsmanship becomes an essential element for the identity and value of the packaging and the brand. And so strong is its influence that the industry is increasingly rushing to adapt to these customisation requirements, which are already echoed by Trussardi’s greyhound sculpture-caps for its prestige collection “Le vie di Milano”, the animal heads of the Portraits creations from Penhaligon’s, and the statuary bottles signed Dalì Haute Parfumerie created as a result of the collaboration with Bormioli.

Written by Filippo Bellini – Journalist.

Share the article

Facebook
LinkedIn

The latest news from Packaging Première & PCD Milan